Yes I know I forgot to write you a report about what I am doing. Yes! What I am doing?
After my trip from Oman (Emirates Arabic) I just had a time to install my stuff in my new home. It is a big deal but it doesn't mean yet that I am living as a social person. I am not ready yet and I have still some trips in my mind for this 2015 year. I just stayed only 3 days at home and I find out that Font is calling me to test some pieces of boulders. To be honest I did not expect to crush lines and sure a really hard one. I just got flows about my climbing. In Oman I met a good friend that already I met during the Petzl Road Trip in Balle Herculane. Read Macadam is my life coach right now but not just. I want explain to you that even I am a rock climber for 21 years I still need some advices for my practice. I explained you on the last post that it is not so important to run after grades of difficulties. Also it is not important to show up your abilities to do one pull up with one arm or to to the best test strength ever if you don't know how to climb. At the end, my philosophy is to realize why I climb. On this topic, I realized and recognized that I spent almost all 20 years to prove that I am a good climber.
You will ask me : why to do that?
Somewhere with threes
As you know my history made in the Wild One documentary, my life was not so easy and I had bad reflexes as every one like to feel a less person. I will not talk about loves and etc. I just point my finger on my main topic of the day. With Read, we explored in an undiscovered place with tones and tones of stone. At the end we had some much to climb that I become lost. After to send the "Squirrel" project I got this new feeling of the climbing. At least I fall again in the love. It means that I don't have anymore the problem to prove my climbing because I realized I will never climb a 8A boulder. So why to convince me I could or I could crush all the time the 6A problem because I sent one 7A in my life. Climbing is not mathematics and it isn't easy every day because the injuries, the envies,etc.
Until the time I admitted I just wanted to prove to my biologic parents that they can have some regrets to abandon an handicapped person and also I fell I had prove to my adopt parents I am not a lazy person. At the end, I solved this big tension I put to myself with those points.
I just do remember now that I read long time ago a simple book about Patrick Edlinger who said " Climbing is only 20% of efforts and 80% of the mentality. Not so far he was right!
After this new knowledge I went fast to Font with just in my mind this idea to climb and to climb, even just easy boulders. In Font, even easiest problems are weird sometimes. What a big suprise for me? Every day I was crushing the project day or to send by on-sight some red problems which for me it is already a performance. Every day I got the smiles to be in the wood, to fight with the temperatures (day'n night) and to enjoy. I just fell again by the beauty f this sport. How incredible is to feel your body. How so cool you feel your biceps, abdominals, legs, shoulders, fingers in the pain. I love it and I know it!
during the Said Belhaj's filming...Left to right : Said, sweedish friends, Neil Hart and Nalle Hukkataival
After 1 week to adapt myself with the sand stone I looked around one of my dream is to climb the easiest problem in Vallee de la Mee where all the 8B are around. In 2007, I went once with Stephan Denys. He pushed me on holds but I fell that this problem is too hard for me. Last year during my four month trip in Font I went only one time to try. Funny or not, I couldn't do at all the first movement.
This 2015 year and without any expectation I crushed in 2 hours this amazing problem and yes I can say I am proud. I am proud to push my limits and to have now : a life coach, a trainer and a kine.
After it, I kept these nice energies to crush more problems as fast as I am writing now. hihihiii
My best moments are on the trying some boulders like :
- Satan Ma bite (Roche aux Oiseax) 7A. Only one missing movement which is the crux but not impossible
- Entre-Toit (Franchard Isatis) : 6c/7A : Need to be stronger on the last crimps but sure I need longer arms ;-). Close to crush.
- Big Jim : As I wish to reach the end!!! Sometimes this problem look to hard for now but I have a lot of progression since last year. More years or more long arms??
- my "big five" in Petit Bois : Unexpected day when I sent 5 red problems. Only one is good for me but 5 was surprising.
Talking about the climbing is good but there is something else that a brand -can't say the name- organize every year a collecting trash. It could be better not to organize it but the fact is the reality is the mess. One day we went to Bas Cuvier and we saw -maybe not sure- 100 climbers around the Carnage to Marie-Rose. Truly the climbing is become year after year a popular sport but for which consequences. So many people around (like me) that the trash is everywhere. But I don't want to blame just climbers because it is not always the guilty ones. I think we should have a cooperation with the administration for the forest, majors and to plan a solid organization to have not full of shit. I was thinking about organic toilets but who will be in the charge? Good transition to explain also I saw couple times some "pampers" on the floor at 20 metres of the parking. How parents can do it ? Curious I am!
It was also the time we met again with Fred Nicole and Mary after our first meeting in 2009 in switzerland during my Evolution Tour 2009. We always kept in touch and it was really a big pleasure to see you guys.
With Mary and Fred Nicole
Finally I will close my mouth and I will just finish by : Climbing is my life and it is my blood.
After one week to be home, I climb around Casteljau's place but I more spend my time to write my book.
Enjoy the movie and Be Good!!