mercredi 24 août 2016

Summer 2016 : Magic Wood

Magic Wood is always the forest where I like to go for the summer trip before to be in Slovenia.
After few years of the training, my climbing style changes quiet a lot because I made a lot of fingers trainings. On so on, I was happy to see myself on the new progression and probably to offer me more alternative and vision for the future.
As I should not notice again, to compare than you (all) my strength represents only 20percent of yours which means at the end that I have mostly no force to climb like you. But on this game of the climbing, even do I am getting younger (39 years old) I can call myself as a beginner in the sport. Eventually I see more what my new hands can do on the rock and the plastic that I have to learn again all the basic technical. It can sound a little strange for readers because I am a professional climber and I use to climb with the best sport men in the discipline. So I should not be surprised to progress. Still I start to know your feelings about how you guys are climbing. For example, I did never care about the friction on the stone because my abilities to grab some crimps, pinches and slopers was quiet almost impossible to grab without my thumb, especially for the right hand. You can obviously check on the different movies that I did a lot. On this change, I do not have any "cute skin" anymore and the effect is radical because I also have no more tendinitis and pain on my corp (shoulders and scapulas).

I don't know if you can get my point because also from my side it is hard to get feelings of how you squeeze, grab and climb boulders. But as I said before, my knowledges helps me to understand what is the climbing. Otherwise, It is long time I shuld stop this amazing sport.

This long introduction is important to explain you because it can show on somehow that I am doing the same sport than you but mostly it shows that when you have a goal to achieve, the trainings can pay off.

When I watched the "Jenny" movie on the internet, I was "pretending" to myself that I could climb it because it is pretty on my climbing style (traverse). I went to Magic Wood after a stop in the World cup in Briancon to do pictures for the Grimper magazine and also to hang out with my Slovenian friends. After this competition, I went to climb in Ailefroide to chile with my buddy, Urh Cehovin, which is actually one of the Slovenian coach and my trainer for the last 3 years too. I repeated quickly a 6B in La Step place. For the detail, I climbed this problem in 2008 after 3 days and this year I sent on 3 tries. Huge difference!

Next day, the rain chased me off the France to Switzerland where also it was a little bit the shower.
When I arrived there I forgot what was the main reason to come in Magic Wood. First day, first emotions when I see myself to flash at least two 6A. Surprise!  2 days after the rain, I went to check the "Jenny" traverse with a friend, Charlie. My other buddies went in other place to keep the warm-up.  The deal was to wait them to encourage me but I decided to go on my own and to take the time I needed.
30 minutes later, I decided to try on the flashing boulder but it did not work as I though on the reading the problem.  I calmed down and I took the rest for 15 mns but my friends was still not. Just the time to think about it, they finally arrived on the time when I was wearing my climbing shoes for a second go.
I don't know if there is any fact of this small action but I breath, blow on my fingers and concentrate myself. The last breath and I am in the action. I pass the crux, I grab the first jug and I surprise myself on the top of the boulder. Without any words by this ascent, it close my mouth. The smile comes and the happiness too. Incredible! I made it! I climb for the first time in my career a 6C+ boulder in two goes. Amazing performance !!!

Thank to my friend who supported me: Mattia, Jan, Charlie

See you around the world!!!

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