samedi 28 février 2015

Lost in Arabia Episode 2

After the last diary about the "Lost in Arabia" expedition with Read MAcadam, Miguel Wills, Dan Bates and I went for an undiscovered place of boulder.
Unfortunately I can't show any picture until we will finish the movie that Miguel filmed. For sure what I can tell you now it is that I had the honor to visit this wild place to crush a lot of first ascents.

After to test couple pieces of boulders in Kubra where I sent a 6b flashed. After, I went to see another one that I saw during the approach. The boulder was front of me like to ask me "Can you climb this one"? For sure on the first view I thought just to climb by couple tries and the history will be done. In fact, it didn't happen like I expected. I got the arrogant motivation to pretend to climb so easy this one but I spent 4 days to make it. My partners of climbing did it so easy because they are tall enough and at this end it is just - obviously- an easy boulder like 6A. On my side, on the fact I have shorter arms to compare than them, the holds looks more like a long reach than it has been.
On my second day, I did not think to link the problem because I couldn't figurate out my betas to reach at least the lip of the boulder. We went for sure to film it but it was already so late that I couldn't see in the dark what I have to do really. I couldn't see the relief where I should stop first to wish to grab the main jug. In plus the movement makes me so stretched that after to push on my right foot to grab properly the main jug. After to have this left one I have on somehow to jump on the second right foot which is located around my hip. Finally I tried for sure more than 15 tries on the second session. My fingers was so bleeding that the situation became so strange for me. How is it possible that I can't manager this movement? One month ago I repeated in one afternoon my first 7a and now I can't do a 6A boulder. After one more try I decided to stop the weird game that I put on myself. In this time I started a wrong process to consider that I am not so strong climber. After our epic journey in the undiscovered place, the desert and others I crushed the "Squirel Quoi" the 18th february. Finally I did it and it made me happy after all bad pressure I put on myself. Sometime you need more time to be aware about the life. The life drives us many time in the happiness but often we are blind and not grateful to her. The force of the belief drives me on the success. Choukran!

On this question It changes probably the story of the exploration in the secret place and to change my mentality about my climbing. After 20 years of this passion, i remind to myself this existential bad feeling that I have to prove something. After 20 years i still know the answer who makes more enthusiastic about what I have done until now. Always a new ascent will makes me more psyched and aware to try harder the next boulder.

With Read Miguel and Dan we drove from Muscat by 5 hours to the undiscovered place. We took the time to enjoy landscapes and to feel in another universe. I never got feelings to feel so empty by my thoughts. I just look around this emptiness who makes me free of what I am living. I just left from France where it is the mess and I am here in this amazing land. Nobody around, just mountains, fragile, unstable roads and we drove. I feel a bit adventurer to found a treasure with tones of boulders round that even if I pray it could never happen. We arrived by night on the base camp that we dressed. Well, in fact we could not go further because it is simply the end. We dressed the base camp and we went slowly to sleep under the wonderful starry sky.
Thankfully, a strong heat in the tante woke me up the next morning. I can't breath. It is too hot! I opened the door of my tante and I saw front of me an hug cliff and I turned my head to check where we are. It was like a giant circus! After the breakfast we saw some kids turning around us during our packing. It was a bit funny on the first. But friendly we came to them and they followed us with crash-pads. The history of the "Lost in Arabia" expedition turned on and we find a LOT!

In this expedition I learned the patience  even sometimes my brain went on the mess.We were at least for 12j days because we had also to bring all gears for food, water and sleeping. Firstly to access there is already a mission by car. After I will call it : the natural selection. Don't count on the bathroom and the shower. After days you can feel...different and to smell your good smell. This spirit makes me happy and just remind me that we are really a small grain in the planet. To wash yourself can wait until you can drink, eat, sleep and to be healthy. On somehow I feel much better on the wild life. Nothing really different than my life in the van, except that we are in the winter and during the day it is sure 30 degres.
Those small details changes also the performance. For this I have a real problem to rest between tries and it changes a lot in the balance of the accomplishment. Then I did remember that I have to be concentrate on my objectifs here in this place. There is so many no-climbed boulders around me that I should not spend my time on one project. It seems more inefficient to be stubborn that tries after tries I went higher or lowers. Sometimes I fell so badly the humidity on sloper that I climbed like a robot just because I want to show that I am able to climb this 6C+ problem. At this end I couldn't have at least one chance to reach the end. What is wrong again with me? So...ME!
Why the game with the climbing makes me tense on my ascents? Every wrong question will get a wrong answer. Thankfully at this end of the trip I was in the peace with myself and I climbed really better and stronger many lines. But unfortunately I couldn't manage to ascent the project : Frustration.

I was pretty sure that this journey will be grateful...and it was. Is it a Thehingaboutlife, isn't it? Just think about what is the thing about life. just think!

One month later, we are in s different world : DUBAI.
What an amazing city? It is so huge of luxury that a blind person could see it. Sincerely, I never smell so much the money that my nose is bleeding. I think it is an experience to visit Dubai. It is better to go by your own and you will get your opinion. One sure thing is that I never expected to come once. Like probably everyone I just saw  some pictures in different promotional clips. I was there by accident after to be "Lost in Arabia".

Thank to Read to invite me and organized everything for the journey.
Thank to Miguel Wills, to have the patience to film climbers
Thank to Dan, Masterchef of Pesto-Pasta
Thank to villagers to accept us in their land, life and culture
Thank to all people who crossed everyday to have smiles, the peace and the friendship.

Philippe RIBIERE

More about Read Macadam



Oman Spot 2 from Info RIBIERE on Vimeo.

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